Bespoke, Semi-Bespoke and Made-to-Measure: What’s the Difference?
Made-to-measure clothing is adjusted from an existing pattern. Semi-bespoke and bespoke both start from a pattern made just for you, from your own measurements, proportions and posture. Bespoke adds a muslin fitting before the cloth is cut and is made entirely by hand.
The terms get used loosely, and as Christian Gardner puts it, “people just don’t know the difference.” Here is how each one works at Scarborough.
Made-to-measure
Made-to-measure starts from a pattern that already exists, then alters it to your measurements. It works well for pieces with a more forgiving fit. At Scarborough, Christian uses made-to-measure for casual wear such as knitwear and bomber jackets.
Semi-bespoke
Semi-bespoke starts from an individual pattern made from your measurements, proportions and posture. Christian measures you and works out the design at your first appointment, and you return for a fitting once the finished garment arrives.
Every semi-bespoke jacket is fully canvassed and hand finished. The edges of the lapels, pockets and vents are pick-stitched by hand, and the buttonholes and buttons are sewn by hand.
Semi-bespoke suits begin at $2,200 and take about six to eight weeks. It suits someone who wants a beautiful, individually patterned garment without the extra time bespoke takes.
Bespoke
Bespoke uses the same individual pattern, with three fittings instead of two:
Measurements: Christian takes your measurements and works out the design.
Muslin fitting: you try on a test garment made in muslin. Christian checks the fit, balance and proportions and refines the pattern before your cloth is cut.
Final fitting: you try on the finished garment, and Christian makes any last adjustments.
A bespoke garment is made entirely by hand. The lapels are pad-stitched by hand, the sleeves and collar are set by hand, and the shoulder, pocket openings, hem and vents are all handwork.
Bespoke suits begin at $3,200 and take about eight to ten weeks. “Bespoke is for an elevated experience and a more refined fit,” Christian says, “for the gentleman who has more time to create a beautiful garment.”
FULLY CANVASSED
A jacket in progress at the Scarborough showroom. The canvas beneath the cloth is what shapes the chest and lapel, and every semi-bespoke or bespoke jacket is fully canvassed.
What both can do
Choosing semi-bespoke doesn’t limit the design. “We can make anything with either process,” Christian says. Lapels, buttons, linings, pockets and silhouette are open with both. The real difference is the muslin fitting and the amount of handwork.
Why custom over a good ready-to-wear suit?
“With custom, you get a much better fit, unique to you. You choose the style of jacket, whether it’s a peak lapel or a notch lapel, one, two or three buttons, and you choose the lining, the buttons and the fit we work toward. With ready-to-wear, you can only buy what they have, and there’s limited ability to get a good fit.”
Fit matters most when your build isn’t standard. “I recently had a client with very sloping shoulders who had been trying on suits at a high-end department store in San Francisco,” Christian says. “In the photos he showed me, the chest was completely collapsing. That’s something you can’t fix off the rack. We take posture and shoulder measurements so we can create a proper shoulder pattern, and the jacket fits the way it should.”
At a glance
Made-to-measure: an existing pattern, adjusted. Used for casual wear.
Semi-bespoke: an individual pattern, two fittings, hand finished. From $2,200, 6–8 weeks.
Bespoke: an individual pattern, three fittings including a muslin, fully handmade. From $3,200, 8–10 weeks.
Not sure which is right for you? Christian will help you decide at your first appointment.